Patchwork was one of the most prevalent trends at New York Fashion week. From color blocking coats form Phillip Lim and Rodarte’s playful collection which combines cute knits, heroes from Star Wars and pieces of colorful lace, to Proenza Schouler’s geometric cuts this technique was inspiring to many designers of different sensibilities. Even Ralph Lauren show featured some winter dresses made out of bright-colored patches.
It seems that the typography is going to be huge trend in 2014 since it extends into the winter season, after we have seen many labels incorporating it in their spring/summer collections. Phillip Lim’s leather bags have words “Cash”, “Amaze” and “Totes” written on them and Vera Wang created a sweatshirt with “You Bug Me” print. And while Wang was obsessed with insects, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier who transformed and revamped Marc by Marc Jacobs brand this season designed a collection full of words and illustrations inspired by cartoon characters.
Curiously, this time winter collections are abundant with summery florals, whereas this season was all about dark blooms. From Michael Kors’s romantic fluttery dresses inspired by Californian beaches to Thakoon’s vibrant floral prints, it looks like the next winter is going to be very cheerful and colorful.
On the other hand, we have also seen plenty of tartan and check patterns on New York catwalks. Rag & Bone used black and white checks for their cool urbanwear collection, Tommy Hilfiger was inspired by classic American style and created warm plaid coats and shirts, and Vera Wang used tartan for everything from jackets to cocktail dresses.
Apart from heavy winter fabrics, there were a lot of lightweight materials too. Many designers used lace and it was literally flooding the catwalks. Alexandre Herchcovitch’s collection was all about lace since he was inspired by girl’s boudoir and vintage underwear, and Vera Wang used black lace and tulle for her gothic evening gowns. Black lace was also used for glamorous dresses by many other designers including Michael Kors, Marchesa and Anna Sui.
Red was another popular color for winter dresses and jackets. Among other Jenny Packham’s heavily embellished royal-quality gowns, red one was a real showpiece. Victoria Beckham made a casual version of it, while Anna Sui defeated them all with a big blood-red fur coat.